As an Aesthetician of 25 years, mainly in the medical aesthetic profession, I can attest to the fact that having a skin care regimin with active ingredients can help you reverse the signs of aging and age better. Gone are the days of miracle creams, or moisturizers listing 'collagen' as an ingredient. Collagen in a product formulation does little to actually build up your skins collagen.
They are helpful in moisturizing or conditioning the superficial layers of the skin-but create new collagen is not their attribute. The following will demystify the ABC;s in terms of priority ingredients that truly build new collagen and elastin fibers or proteins that firm, add density and reduce reduce wrinkles.
Retinoids - These are the A listers and if there is one product you should buy-its an active retinoid serum. They may be prescription such as Retin-A (also known generically as Tretinoin), or Retinol- a pure form that although non-prescription can also provide equal benefits as prescription strength. Both come in different strengths and most skin types need to acclimate in usage to prevent dryness or sensitivity. Ultimately for best results you'll need to use one at night, at least five times weekly.
Retinaldehyde - a newer version that may reduce the chances of irritation as your skin acclimates to nightly use.
Bakuchiol-I love this anti aging ingredient with origins from a native African tree. I call it Retinols twin sister in terms of skin benefits it yields as well as the atcantage of zero sensitivity. My Ret-bright serum combines Bakuchioil with Retinol for a 1, 2 punch effect.
AHA's - Personally these are my favorites! Wether it's Glycolic or Salicylic for thicker, oilier skin or lactic and malic for mature, dry or sensitive skin-they all resurface the skin and aid in cellular turnover. That equals brighter, tighter, more refined texture and achieving a radiant glow.
PH matters here and it's a question I always ask my skin product companies to be sure it's in the range (generally PH2.3 -3.5) so that it penetrates and is active when applied. Remember our outer layer of skin the Stratum Corneum, is made up of dead cells so these products need to work past that to have the effect it's intended for.
Peptides - I call these the diamonds in the rough. They are cellular messengers that can direct and encourage or cells in many functions, including producing collagen, elastin, relaxing facial muscles (aka topical botox peptide) and several other functions to achieve healthier skin.
So when considering a skin care purchase, ask questions, know the ingredient profile and be an informed consumer on how to get the most from a serum or moisturizer puchase.
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